How To Clean Head Mating Surface For Exhaust Manifold
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Topic: Best manner to prep surface for new manifolds? Posted: April-03-2013 at i:28pm
Now that I've got the stud problem taken care of, I desire to kickoff prepping the risers and head surface for a make clean install.
Two questions:
ane. What is the best method to remove all the crap from the last gasket and go a clean metal to seat the side by side one?
two. I would like to clean the risers and paint them before reinstalling. What is the preferred paint to use? (I don't own a spray gun)
I was thinking near using a very fine sanding disk with the pneumatic rotary tool to prep only I don't desire to rut anything out which I've done several times with dremmels on other like projects.
The riser.
This is a bad pic simply you tin can meet the blueprint left behind from the last gasket in the side of the head. I'd like to clean this up.
1999 Ski Nautique 196
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Posted: April-03-2013 at one:31pmOOOPS
Nevermind the start moving picture in a higher place. Thats the old manifold.
Here'southward the riser.
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Posted: April-03-2013 at 1:34pmIf you have access to an air angle dice grinder yous can go an attachement that is called a roloc disc. These are keen high speed tools for removal of old gasket/corrosion. There are ii types i red(for aluminum) and one brown(for steel). If you don't have that a wire cycle in a higher speed drill should work fine(habiliment safety spectacles). For the larger pieces of the gasket apply a uncomplicated gasket scraper or something like it.
I just used standard high temp engine pigment/primer and it has held upwardly fine for 7 years.
In that location are improve pigment choices out there others will chime in.
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Posted: April-03-2013 at 1:45pmI exercise have an air bending dice grinder.
Are these the disks yous're referring besides?
3M Amazon
These expect pretty coarse and rigid. I'chiliad not going to make grooves with these?
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Posted: Apr-03-2013 at 1:50pmFrank, for the risers & manifolds this has come up earlier (ane very recent thread besides). A large flat file or emery cloth on a flat surface/block.
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Posted: April-03-2013 at 2:04pmThose are the ones. Use em for everything. The simply way you volition damage it is if you just button down likewise difficult and leave the grinder in the same spot for a while. Almost times the weight of the grinder/your manus is enough force per unit area on the disc. Just keep information technology moving the whole fourth dimension. Back and 4th motions. If youd rather the red ones they are less abrasive for aluminum.
I've even used these on the cases of snowmobile motors in which it is essential to continue the mating surfaces flat. Ofttimes times on critical aluminum similar that I will apply a used disc on which the sides aren't as square and have been worn downwards slightly. This helps a lot.
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Posted: April-03-2013 at 2:49pmThose disks are way less abrasive than a file, and used properly should give you a nice surface.
Merely utilize a gentle bear upon similar Zach said. It'll be the fastest and easiest.
If you have a Napa in your town, they volition sell yous a small-scale box or probably simply one. That is all you volition need, only after you use them y'all'll like them.
If we let the professionals practice everything it takes all the fun out of youtube
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Posted: April-03-2013 at 2:49pm
Hollywood wrote: Frank, for the risers & manifolds this has come up before (one very recent thread likewise). A large flat file or emery cloth on a flat surface/block.
+i
the rolock disks that Zach is talking about are pretty agressive for a surface that needs to be apartment in the end. You might be able to go away with using them, but would be safer with a flat file, or emery material equally suggested... simply brand sure you hold your file very apartment, and don't cut too much. with each stroke, brand sure you cover the whole surface and so that you keep the whole affair flat in the end. blow out the threaded holes with compressed air afterwards so that the bolts will go in cleanly on re-associates
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Posted: April-03-2013 at 2:52pm
These are the all-time if you can notice them and are worried about taking likewise much off.
A file works likewise, every bit long as you can keep information technology clean enough to cut. I used that method and found it got pretty gummed upwardly with gasket.
If nosotros permit the professionals exercise everything it takes all the fun out of youtube
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Posted: April-03-2013 at ii:59pmThe skillful affair about a large flat file is that it takes the high spots off. It is very apparent how (un)flat the surface is with the 1st few swipes.
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Posted: April-03-2013 at 3:46pmI hold with the file as well. Don't think you will go wrong either manner. I've been using roloc discs since I can recollect working on cars. Manifolds, heads, you proper noun it I've used it.
I've damaged aluminum before with those yellow finger wheels. (quondam part merely to test if it would hurt information technology)
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Posted: April-03-2013 at iv:48pm Showtime with scotch brite pads/bristle discs to remove the rust/scale.
Finnish with a flat mill file for a adept apartment surface.
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Posted: April-03-2013 at iv:55pmkickoff with the flat file then utilise the annoying disks for the nooks and crannies.
former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place get
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Posted: April-03-2013 at 5:22pm Chris if you don't desire to pull them off make clean them up the best you can with the above methods and pigment them with a skillful engine paint like this.Pete's favorite auto stores similar Autozone or O'Reillys will take it.
Others will advise which mode to install the riser gaskets,they practise keep a certain way
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Posted: April-03-2013 at five:36pmThe rear-most passage should be blocked. This forces water upwardly over the entire riser instead of sneaking out the bottom.
Nosotros had one of each on the Martinique...
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Posted: April-03-2013 at vi:04pm Way over complicating, simply use more liquid gasket
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Posted: April-03-2013 at half dozen:08pm 1. Gasket scraper to get the big chunks off
ii. Spray with brake cleaner and wipe to become any gunky stuff off
3. Wire wheel to clean metal
iv. Line sander to true upward surface, allows you to meet high/low spots. I use 80 grit on existent bad/warped stuff up to 320 grit for good apartment surface that just needs to be cleaned. If you lot have room, rotate sander to get a crosshatch blueprint and let amend gasket sealing.
For the exhaust ports themselves you lot may not accept room for a line sander, simply unless actually messed upwardly a wire wheel will exist fine. If having trouble sealing with regular gaskets become yourself a set of remflex gaskets (www.remflex.com). A bit pricey for frazzle gaskets but they seal annihilation and the company stands behind their product no questions asked no hassle. Worth every penny.
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Posted: April-03-2013 at vii:03pm I dunked mine in NMP (nasty solvent but does a smashing job of removing paint) sand blasted, spray practical corrosion resistant fluoropolymer blanket and cured at 200C.
Actually pleased with how they turned out can post photos tomorrow if interested
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Posted: April-04-2013 at 1:53amAnd then I just spent a little bit working with the risers today. These are evidently the easy sections because I tin can have them on my work bench.
I started with a razorblade scraping tool to remove the big chunks of the old gasket.
After the razor and a footling sanding. I used a little "Hoppe'south #9" gun oil to assist loosen the nasty stuff. You can see the divergence here between the peak which had the oil and lesser that didn't. This is after sanding with course emery cloth on a sanding block.
From there I put a apartment file on it.
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Posted: Apr-04-2013 at 1:57am Finished with medium emery cloth and block.
Checked it with a vivid backlight and machinists square.
Here'south my gasket set.
Chris
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Posted: Apr-04-2013 at 2:15amMine was not savable by hand, they had been rotting and leaking long before I bought my stang
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Posted: April-04-2013 at 6:39am
gR@HaM wrote: I dunked mine in NMP (nasty solvent just does a great job of removing paint) sand blasted, spray applied corrosion resistant fluoropolymer coating and cured at 200C.
Actually pleased with how they turned out tin can postal service photos tomorrow if interested
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Posted: April-04-2013 at nine:27pmWow Graham those look amazing. I don't quite take the resources to do all of that but I'm moving along.
Anyone have an idea what the torque value is on the manifold bolts? Risers as well?
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Posted: April-04-2013 at 11:53pm"Beer is proof that God loves the states and wants us to be happy."
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Posted: April-05-2013 at 12:30am Thanks Chris!!!!!!
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Posted: April-05-2013 at 12:30amThose valve covers will demand some work to lucifer your work on the manifolds...
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Posted: April-05-2013 at 12:34amYea I'k not quite certain what to do with the valve covers nevertheless. They had a sort of plastic decal that fabricated up the white parts and its all flaking off.
I'grand open to suggestions/ideas for them?????
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Posted: April-07-2013 at 12:50amI did some piece of work on the heads today trying to prep them for the new manifolds this calendar week.
I ended upwardly using;
1. Contumely brush
2. Razorblades (scraper)
three. Sanding block with emery cloth
4. "Flat Bastard" file
5. Modest torch (for loosening erstwhile gasket material)
6. Machinist's square
vii. Hoppe's #9 Gun Oil (not pictured)
When I began, it looked like the dimples in the old gasket created a lot of pitting. However, it turned out to be carbon build up mixed with everything else created in a gasket over 17 years.
I started with the razor, scraping all the big chunks of gasket. Adjacent was a few swipes with the flat file to bring it downwards to the bare metal. This did actually well at getting all the nasty material off. I dipped a rag in the gun oil between each pace and rubbed the surface to loosen leftover material and it also helped to prove the areas that still had high spots. The last steps were a gradual stride downwardly sanding from fibroid, to medium, to fine emery textile on a sanding block. Of form, I used the square to truthful everything upwards betwixt steps.
There was one problem spot, which was likewise the spot that the manifold stud was stuck. Clearly the expanse with the almost corrosion.
Y'all can see the pitting created here. Is this in tolerance or does it need more attending?
I took the pictures before the fine sanding steps which is why they expect then rough. I was also thinking virtually doing ane more step with a stone earlier putting the new manifolds on.
Chris
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Posted: April-07-2013 at 1:23amYou are golden every bit is. The pitting is outside the sealing expanse of the gasket. Great task!
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Posted: April-07-2013 at 11:21amLooks good , with the amount of corrosion you have on that motor . I would give serious thought to removing /cleaning/replacing if needed all wire grounds and connections around that motor. you lot may save yourself some headaches afterwards.
former skylark owner now a formula but I cant permit this place become
Source: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29393&title=best-way-to-prep-surface-for-new-manifolds
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